A cruise in Alaska wildlife - Seeing Alaska Up Close and Personal

Getting there has not been easy. We flew from Tampa to Seattle to visit a friend there, sleeping in the Marriott Seattle Airport for a morning flight via Vancouver to Prince Rupert, where the airport is located on an island, so that a bus ferry, then a ferry ride to the Crest Motor Hotel for another night. The next morning after a tour of the city and the countryside, we finally board the yacht.

The passengers included a retired doctor and his wife,two bankers, a social worker and massage therapist to begin their withdrawal, and now a rich man who had helped start a computer company in a garage and his wife, as our writer and photographer. The crew consists of captain, mate, chief cook, naturalist, two maids who also made huts, and a naturalist intern.

The 105-foot Safari Spirit ship very impressive, with well-appointed rooms, a room richly decorated. Our cabin has two single beds, privatebathroom with shower, adjustable thermostat, a dressing table, dresser, two closets and lots of space. There were windows, but so high that they had no opinion. Our cabin was very quiet. (The two aft cabins, closer to the engine, had some vibration and noise when the boat was underway.) The most elegant cabins stood on the deck with king-size bed and large sliding glass doors to a balcony.

It 'was in fact, as the brochure said, a great tripcruise ship, but how to get around in your private yacht. In fact, I was hanging from the bridge most of the time we were on the road, get the eye of the master journey after our progress in the standings, and hear stories about how the whales migrate and the captain and mate with the experience of swimming whales travel search. On two afternoons I also have to take the wheel for an hour or so.

The Safari Spirit was an intimate in the heart of Alaska to see up close and personal. Welearned how close and personal on the first night, when we conducted our first survey on the Zodiac boat. We had arrived in Foggy Cove, which was in effect, with the mist rising all around the area, still and serene as a Japanese landscape painting. I was crouched behind a naturalist, shivering from the cold (I had just returned from Florida and wondered why I was not long underwear and a full-length alpaca coat worn), when we saw the bear. It 'been a brown bear (itsaying the shape of teddy bear face and shoulder bump over color - blacks bears have a hump and a pointed snout). E 'was grazing on grass in a meadow near the coast (bears feed mainly on grass in spring, eat salmon during the spawning season in autumn). We close the board and slid silently near the shore, watching the bear and the bear looked at us. We sat in a trance for a while 'until the bear decided to check us and came out stronger on a log, but fewfeet of us, where we quickly left. We saw many bears on other days, but this was special because it was our first, and it was so close.

We spent the night at anchor in the bay, and the next day exploring more of the Zodiac and kayaking. Then we cruise to Ketchikan and checked the museum and other high spots are, fortunately, a day when none of the big ships in port.

Monday morning we left early, cruise through the Misty Fjords NationalWilderness and monument arrived in Bay Yes, again with a stretch of calm water. Three at once we took a seaplane tour of the area, we flew over the mountain lakes, and saw expanses of ice fields and glaciers, and mountain trails with the occasional mountain goat on steep slopes. In the evening was more kayaking, more exploration of the zodiac, and a hike to the waterfall.

Passing through these waterways remote coves and bays was great. We have a deep breaththe fresh air and stared at the view breathtaking view over our memory footprint. We rarely saw another boat. Mostly we've seen forests, dotted with the occasional village or fishing lodge. Each turn around the next point was a glimpse of a beautiful environment. The passengers tried to figure out how to assess the view, "enthuses 5", "5 ahhs", "incredible", "impressive", "mystic."

At night in our discussions in the room we had a lot to talk about. There were also lessons from thenaturalist, watch videos, books and an excellent reference on Alaska culture and nature. There was also a hot tub on deck to relax and watch the stars at night.

The next day was chock-Meyers, a fishing village, the population of 18 (including two families who had not spoken for years). We visited the small post office, which also houses the village pool table and talked to the locals, the postmistress, a man painted his fishing boat, the woman in the gift shop, which has warned usThere has been sighted on the trail that morning, the widow who wove baskets to sell. In the afternoon we went with the boats for an 'island to explore an old house. Come through the woods of our orange float suits we wear to the reception we have looked strange Martians invade or guerrilla forces moving through the orange trees. That day, the head chef at Block Myers had loaded the supplies and we had a dinner on the deck of fresh salmon, crab and barbecue ribs. And fresh bread,we had every day.

By now we had seen several bears, a big black bear, various shades of brown, one with a puppy, like eagles, various seabirds, dolphins and sea otters. And we were to appreciate more and more streams we were going through, seeing the real Alaska wilderness. The Tongass National Forest which we navigate through the largest national forest in the United States, 17 million hectares. And 'the wilderness, quiet, large pieces of old-growthtrees ... just touched a desert with spectacular scenery. There are many streams and waterfalls and lakes because of high rainfall, and more bears and eagles than anywhere else in the world.

As we know from Prince Rupert on the Canadian border between Alaska and traveled north to Juneau, it was like going back in geologic time. We could see that the same differences in vegetation succession through the centuries as we went by fully mature lush forest to the glaciers, asreturn to the ice age in the form of capsules. After the ice age, lichens and mosses as pioneer plants, when Fireweed, bird droppings later put shrubs and planting trees, willows and poplars and alders, which ends spruce and hemlock trees. It takes about 300 years to grow a forest, and every mile we go is like going back 10-15 years of history. And the glaciers are retreating and are still moving and casting of the country. We started snow-capped mountains increasingly devoid of trees, as we shall seeNorth Cross.

Our next city was the Norwegian fishing village of Petersburg, and we moored next to dozens of fishing boats, which are reflected in the waters at sunset. We walked the city, food, and after dinner went to Kave Kato, the local dance hall / lounge. Our nutty naturalist - we started to catch on to his tricks - he told them at the door to control knives or weapons, and if you have not, they give you one. There were a lot of beard and boots, but notguns, and we got some locals, most of them think of coming to Florida in the winter would be a good idea to know.

The next day we walked in the forest, unlike the usual nature trekking, because instead of peace and tranquility, not to frighten the wild animals, they are told not to eat too much wear and noise. Our natural brown sang songs and sang "Hello Bear. We are. We have no food, Bear." After the walk a salmon stream playback, we sailed to an island for a picnic onthe beach where we saw oystercatchers and Bear Bones and took pictures of the chef-cook fake bones for soup and crew carrying flowers to put on the zodiac to collect wood picnic table.

On our way to the next destination zip Dall porpoises around our bow, and then we came across a whale or two, then we came to an island full of hundreds of sea lions, and farmers are struggling in their own frat party noisy.

Last Friday we went to Tracy Arm. The captain revvedthe actions of our nose closer to straight up for a waterfall, the water pounding on the front. Then we crossed to the north and south arms of Sawyer Glacier, then reached out to Zodiac, going around Berg brilliant milky turquoise water with ice chips. That evening the ship we saw a huge black bear mother and her two cubs walking in a meadow along a river, a fitting tribute to our last night aboard. We all agree that the millionspeople who come to Alaska does not have much experience with what we did at the Safari Spirit.

In Juneau, we were collected by companies in the City North in a cool 1937 Touring Car. Some people have a tour of Mendenhall Glacier, the rest of us caught the beginning of the parade of dancers from Native American tribal communities in all corners of Alaska and the celebration of military veterans from the Juneau Convention Center.

American Safari Cruises Safari Quest also has a little 'bigger than theSafari Spirit, 21 guests. It has eight nights packets between Sitka and Juneau. On both ships, the meals are served family in one place, the dress is always casual. Both feature the joy of small boat sailing. American Safari Cruises calls the sailboat. What ever you call it, gives you the flexibility to change course for the sighting of whales or other wildlife, which allows you and your fellow travelers the information officers and crew, and to knowpeople and cultures and the environment you are traveling.

When to go to Alaska? It depends on what you want. In May and June there is more snow and fewer people. You see many bears on the beaches, many nesting and migratory birds, but fewer whales. June and July are reported as the best months for fishing. July and August are hot, you'll see more whales, and salmon are spawning, so you can bear to watch the salmon fishing. The rainy season begins in August.

What to bring:Casual warm clothing, including parkas, gloves, scarf and hat, with many film cameras, binoculars and walking shoes.

You can add post-cruise tours to Anchorage, Fairbanks and Denali National Park for some fishing or you can stay in a fly-in lodge.

Thanks To : Fax Broadcasting Photo Postcards

A Wildlife Cruise in Alaska - Seeing Alaska Up Close and Personal

Getting there wasn't easy. We flew from Tampa to Seattle to visit a friend there, overnighting at the Seattle Marriott near the airport for a morning flight that went through Vancouver to Prince Rupert, where the airport is on an island, necessitating a bus to a ferry, then a ferry ride to the Crest Motor Hotel for another overnight. The next morning after a tour of the city and the countryside, we finally boarded the yacht.

The passengers included a retired physician and his wife, two bankers, a social worker and massage therapist who were starting their own retreat, and a now rich man who had helped start a computer company in a garage and his wife, plus us as writer and photographer. The crew consisted of captain, mate, chef, naturalist, two waitresses who also took care of cabins, and a naturalist trainee.

The 105-foot Safari Spirit is very impressive vessel, with beautifully appointed state rooms and a richly furnished salon. Our cabin had twin beds, private bath with shower, individually controlled thermostat, a dressing table, chest of drawers, two hanging lockers, and plenty of room. There were windows, but high so they had no view. Our stateroom was very quiet. (The two aft cabins, closer to the engine, had some vibration and noise when the yacht was underway.) The most elegant staterooms were on the Bridge Deck with king-size bed and large sliding glass doors to a balcony.

It was indeed, as the brochures said, not like traveling on a big cruise ship, but like cruising in your own private yacht. In fact, I hung out at the helm station most of the time we were underway, getting the captain's eye of the voyage, following our course on the charts, and hearing stories of how whales migrate and the captain's and mate's experiences swimming with whales on research voyages. On two afternoons I even got to take the wheel for an hour or so.

The Safari Spirit was an intimate way to see the heart of Alaska up close and personal. We learned just how up close and personal on the first evening when we made our first exploring run in the ship's zodiac. We had arrived in Foggy Cove, which indeed it was, with mist rising all around, the water flat and still, and the scenery as serene as a Japanese painting. I was huddled behind the naturalist, shaking with cold (I had just come from Florida and was wondering why I hadn't worn long underwear and a full-length alpaca coat), when we saw the bear. It was a brown bear (you tell by the teddy-bear shape of the face and shoulder hump more than the color - black bears have a pointed face and no hump). It was grazing on grass in a flat meadow along the shore (bears eat mostly grass in the spring, eat salmon at spawning time in the fall). We shut off the outboard engine and quietly glided close to shore, watching the bear and the bear watching us. We sat entranced for quite a while, until the bear decided to check us out more closely and came out on a log just a few feet from us, at which point we quickly got out of there. We saw many bears on other days, but this one was special because it was our first, and it was so close.

We spent the night at anchor in the cove, and the next day explored some more by zodiac and by kayak. Then we cruised to Ketchikan and checked out the museum and other high spots there, luckily on a day when none of the big ships were in port.

Monday morning we left early, cruising through the Misty Fiords National Monument Wilderness and arrived in Yes Bay, again with mirror-like calm water. Then three at a time we took a floatplane sightseeing tour of the area, where we flew over mountain lakes, and saw long stretches of ice fields and glaciers, and mountainsides with occasional mountain goats on craggy slopes. In the evening was more kayaking, more zodiac exploration, and a hike to a waterfall.

Going through these remote waterways to secluded bays and coves was wonderful. We took deep breaths of the fresh air and looked hard at the incredible scenery to imprint the views on our memory. We seldom saw another boat. Mostly we saw virgin forests, dotted by an occasional village or fishing lodge. Every bend around the next point meant another glimpse of awesome scenery. The passengers tried to figure ways to rate the views:"5 wows", "5 ahhs", "incredible", "awesome", "mystical".

In our evening discussions in the salon we had a lot to talk about. There also were lectures by the naturalist, videos to view, and excellent reference books on Alaska culture and wildlife. There was also a hot tub on deck for relaxing and star-gazing at night.

The next day was Meyers Chock, a fishing village, population 18 (including two families who haven't spoken to each other in years). We visited the little post office which also housed the village pool table and talked to the local people: the postmistress, a man painting his fishing boat, the woman in the gift shop who warned us there was bear sighted on the trail that morning, the widow who wove baskets to sell. In the afternoon we went by zodiac to an island to explore where a house used to be. Coming through the woods in our orange float suits that we wear for warmth we looked like invading Martians or weird orange guerilla forces moving through the trees. That day in Meyers Chock the chef had loaded up on supplies and we had a dinner on deck of fresh salmon, crab, and barbecued ribs. And the fresh baked bread that we had every day.

By now we had seen several bears, a huge black bear, several browns including one with a cub, as well as eagles, various seabirds, dolphins, and sea otters. And we were appreciating more and more the waterways we were going through, seeing the real Alaska wilderness. The Tongass National Forest that we were cruising through is the largest national forest in the United States, 17 million acres. It is isolated and wild, uncrowded, with huge tracts of old-growth trees... a scarcely touched wilderness with spectacular scenery. There are many streams and lakes and waterfalls because of the high rainfall, and more bears and eagles than anywhere else in the world.

As we went from Prince Rupert on the Canadian/Alaskan border and cruised north to Juneau it was like going back through geological time. We could see the same differences in plant succession that occurred over the centuries as we went from lush fully matured forest to the glaciers, like going back in capsule form to the ice age. After the ice age came lichens and mosses, then pioneer plants like fireweed, later bird droppings brought shrubs and tree seedlings, then willows and cottonwoods and alders, climaxing with spruce and hemlock trees. It takes some 300 years to grow a forest, and every mile we go is like going back 10-15 years in history. And the glaciers are still moving and receding and molding the land. We began to see more and more treeless snowy mountains as we cruised northward.

Our next town was the Norwegian fishing village of Petersburg, and we docked next to dozens and dozens of fishing boats, all reflected in the water at sunset. We walked the town, did some shopping, and after dinner went to Kato's Kave, the local dance hall/lounge. Our nutty naturalist - we were beginning to catch on to his tricks - said they check at the door for knives or guns, and if you don't have any, they give you one. There were a lot of beards and boots, but no guns, and we got to know some locals, most of whom thought coming to Florida in the winter would be a good idea.

The next day we hiked through the forest, different from the usual nature hike because instead of being quiet so as not to scare away wildlife, you are told not to carry food and to make lots of noise. Our nutty naturalist sang songs and chanted "Hi Bear. We are coming. We have no food, Bear." After the hike up a salmon-spawning creek, we cruised to an island for a picnic on the beach where we saw oyster catchers and bear bones and took pictures of the chef pretending to gather bones for soup and the crew bringing flower arrangements by zodiac to put on the driftwood picnic table.

On our way to the next destination Dall porpoises zipped around our bow; later we came upon a whale or two, then we came upon an island filled with hundreds of sea lions, wrestling and belching in their own noisy frat party.

On Friday we entered Tracy Arm. The captain revved up the action by nosing us closer and closer right up into a waterfall, the water pounding onto the foredeck. Then we cruised right up to the north and south arms of the Sawyer glacier, then got closer yet by zodiac, motoring around brilliant turquoise bergies through water milky with ice bits. That evening from the ship we saw a huge momma black bear and her two cubs strolling in a meadow along the water, a fitting tribute to our last night on board. We all agreed that of the millions of people who come to Alaska not many experience what we did on the Safari Spirit.

In Juneau we were picked up by Northern Sights company in a cool 1937 touring car. Some people took the tour to Mendenhall Glacier, the rest of us caught the beginning of the parade of tribal dancers of native American communities from all over Alaska and their celebration of military veterans at the Juneau convention center.

American Safari Cruises also has the Safari Quest, a little larger than the Safari Spirit, carrying 21 guests. It has eight-night packages between Sitka and Juneau. On both vessels, meals are served family style at one seating, dress is always totally casual. They both typify the joy of small ship cruising. American Safari Cruises calls it yacht cruising. What ever you call it, it gives you flexibility of changing course for a whale sighting or other wildlife sightings, it lets you get to know your fellow travelers and the officers and crew, and to get to know about the people and cultures and environment where you travel.

When should go to Alaska? It depends on what you are looking for. In May and June there is more snow and fewer people. You see many bears on the beaches, many nesting and migrating birds, but fewer whales. June and July are reported as the best fishing months. July and August are warmer, you will see more whales, and salmon are spawning so you can see bear fishing for salmon. August starts the rainy season.

What to bring: Casual warm clothes, including parka, gloves, scarf, and hat; camera with lots of film; hiking shoes; and binoculars.

You can add on post cruise excursions to Anchorage, Denali National Park, and Fairbanks or you can stay for some fishing at a fly-in fishing lodge.

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